My skin wore the morning air like a warm, damp cloak, as I stood squelched into the trail mud of the Panamanian paradise island of Bastimentos. Silhouettes of Antbirds rustled through the dank undergrowth as they monitored the military march of a column of Army ants. I looked up at the wiry green bundle that hung above my head. The bundle in question was the rear end of a sleeping Three-toed sloth. I pulled a heavy shoe from the sucking mud, and the indigenous guide and I carried on walking along the Salt Creek community trail. I asked him about the chances of seeing the Two-toed Sloth that had, up to this point, evaded me. He explained that in this area the Two-toed sloth is much less comfortable around people, preferring to spend its time high in the canopy. Our chances of seeing one were slim.
We made our way deeper into the jungle when the guide stopped, holding up his right palm to me while pointing up; “parrot!” he said. My eyes worked their way along his left arm to his fingertip, drawing an imaginary line straight up into the dense canopy. This was a bucket list moment for me! High in the canopy was a Red-lored Amazon Parrot. I’d only seen these magnificent birds in zoos and pet shops. I fixed my binoculars on it and it fixed me with a tilted glance. We stayed frozen in this staring competition for a few moments, when something strange happened.

Unsure if it had been noticed, the parrot maintained its βIβm a leafy stumpβ pose as I lifted my 500mm zoom lens up. The canopy was dark with diamonds of light piercing the leaves. These were less than ideal conditions to memorialise a bucket list moment in pixels. As I clicked and moved to find a solid background, a dark shape shifted in the leaves behind the parrot. A long hairy arm unfurled and hauled a shaggy bulk through the branches above. It was a Two-toed Sloth! Another bucket list moment in the same photo frame. The shaggy animal was high in the canopy, obscured behind branches and foliage, and was spotted with back-light. With a little adjustment I was able to track it to a clearing and fire a few shots, as it stopped for a leafy snack.

The guide explained that the people of his village love the Three-toed sloth, but the Two-toed sloth is much less popular. They have a questionable temperament and a different diet. While the Three-toed sloth almost exclusively eats leaves, the Two-toed sloth will make frequent trips to the village banana plantation to indulge in a little forbidden fruit. In my head it occurred to me that this is probably the reason that he didnβt expect to see one, but I stepped back from that line of enquiry.
The Two-toed sloth is a bigger animal than the Three-toed, growing to around 70 cm (27 inches) and weighing in at up to 9 kg (19.8 pounds). It is also a little faster moving, by sloth standards. This sloth gets its name from the two massive finger claws that are up toΒ 6.5Β cm (2.0 to 2.6Β in) long. This name is rather inaccurate, as in common with all sloths, the Two-toed sloth has three toes, but has two fingers.
It was from my base in Panama City that I started to make regular acquaintance with the Two-toed sloth. Unfortunately, the encounters were generally the same. A ball of soggy strawberry blonde, sleeping balanced on a branch, high above.
Whilst the Two-toed sloth is common in Panama and listed as Least Concern globally, I had been told that its Three-toed cousin was much more abundant and that I was less likely to see the Two-toed. Although my encounters with the Three-toed were more close-up and personal, overall, I did see more Two-toeds.
I arrived at the Gamboa resort car park to enjoy the unrivaled view of the lake and jungle. I spotted a couple of Agouti nibbling on the manicured lawn, and wandered over to take some shots, but they were gone in the blink of an eye. As I walked back across the car park a man leaned out of his car window and told me that there was a sloth in the trees at the back of the car park, and it was awake!
I headed over to the trees looking for a brown ball of hair with a face that wouldn’t be out of place in a Star Wars movie. I didn’t need to search for long. The morning had been a washout with grey skies and torrential rain. The afternoon sun was trying to wrestle the clouds open. Now was the chance for the sodden animals of the rainforest to dry off and warm up. In those first droplets of sun I finally had my proper Two-toed sloth encounter.
Further Reading – If you have a thing for sloths then I can’t recommend Sloths – Life In The Slow Lane highly enough. The book is written by Rebecca Cliffe and includes wonderful photography by the talented Suzi Esterhaz. Best of all, a significant amount of the proceeds from book sales goes straight back to the Sloth Conservation Foundation.
πππ
Β Join the conversation below. Have you encountered a sloth? Where did you see them? Β
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Categories: Central America
A well penned post with great pictures. βοΈβΊοΈ
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Thank you! ππ
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Great picture to end the trip on! Has emotional impact which is an achievement given the nature of your subject here. Thanks for that book recommendation as well – will be checking out.
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Thanks for the kind comment! Iβm happy that it has an emotional impact. If you like sloths then this is an excellent book. It is always a joy to find a book that combines really extraordinary photography with solid, scientific, easily understood information.
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They look to be charismatic creatures in an enigmatic, slow moving way. Glad those droplets of sun came out – that last shot’s a winner. Interesting to see those long limbs.
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I think that a slow and steady charisma is exactly right! The length of the front limbs is extraordinary. Thanks for the kind words! π
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I really enjoyed this post, as I did your earlier post about the three-toed sloth. Good writing and fabulous photographs will get me every time. And that last shot is a beauty. Makes me long for a better lens.
Alison
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Thank you so much, Alison! A comment like this is so encouraging. Sorry to tell you that no matter how long your lens is you always want the next size up! π
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Chuckle it’s true. Actually I’d settle for the one I have if it would hold at 2.8
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Hi David! How incredible that you got a two-toes sloth and a red-lored parrot in the same shot! You seem to have incredible luck with wildlife!
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Hey Josh! It was awesome (a word used too frequently) to catch two of the creatures that I really wanted to see in one shot. I feel that Iβve been lucky with wildlife, but I think we make our own luck. We make our own bad luck, too but Iβve not written the articles about the ant bites, bee stings and leaches… π
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Yes, it does seem that you’re fairly persistent when looking for your favorite species, which apparently pays off!
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I am blown away by your writing. The pictures looked great as well, you were so lucky to see so much wildlife and capture a few photos of them! I really enjoyed reading about your experiences seeing these magnificent creatures!
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Thank you, Julia! Iβm glad you enjoyed the post. Your comment is very kind and extremely encouraging! I was absolutely lucky to see so much wildlife. It is a fantastic country for nature lovers.
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Another excellent read! I really liked the one were it looks like heβs almost curled up against the branches and of course… that face!!
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Thank you, Tara! π It is hard to believe that it is comfortable to sleep in those branches, but that is a sloths favourite thing to do. It is a face for radio, but strangely beautiful. π
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Hahaha! I guess thatβs about it too! I so thoroughly enjoy your posts and always look forward to the next one.
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Thank you for your proactive and caring work out there, David! Really appreciate and admire what you do for our natural world “) Education with humor, pathos, and great photographs ongoing – cheers!
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Thank you, Lara! π As always, you are too kind. π
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“)!
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This is written beautifully. The shots you managed to get are gorgeous too despite them being so high up. This was an absolute pleasure to read and I will definitely look into reading Sloths – Life in the Slow Lane.
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Thank you, Michael! π I really appreciate those kind words. As you know, blogging is quite a commitment so a few kind words reminds us of why we do what we do. If you love sloths you will enjoy the book.
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Once again, amazing photographs! It is one of my dreams to see sloths in the wild!
Tamanna
thewildernesschronicle.wordpress.com
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Thank you so much, Tamanna! π I hope your dream comes true. PanamΓ‘ is a place where you can make it happen. π
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I didn’t know sloths could be ‘crop-raiders’ too! It’s also interesting how the local people perceive the two species differently. Thanks for sharing!
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It was news to me, too! It can hardly make a smash n grab raid! π Yes, I was surprised that the species would be perceived differently. Fascinating perspective from indigenous people.
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This is the first blog Iβve read of yours. Was very exciting and I was definitely caught up in it. Might have to read a few more!
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Thank you for stopping by! Iβm delighted that you found yourself caught up in it. I would be delighted to have you stick around and hopefully enjoy a few more. π
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Magic as always, I have pictures in my head of you dripping your way about protecting your camera from the humidity. Wonderful to read about !
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Thank you, Gina! π Your pictures are almost certainly spot on! π
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I have just recently been interested in nature photos. After going through some blogs, I must say that you probably have the clearest/cleanest [excuse my English] pictures. They are crystal clear and really authentic.
Ever wondered about applying for a job in National Geographic? Hehe
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Thank you so much for the kind words, Arne! π I do work hard to take clear photographs with the equipment that I have. Then I see the work of National Geographic photographers and realize how much more work, time and money is required to take photos of that quality. Iβm happy with my hobby snaps! π
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Hi David, I love your writing and stunning photographs! What a lucky encounter with the sloth and parrot. I’ve never seen a sloth before, so that’s going on my bucket list π
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Hi Lavanya, thank you for you kind words! π Everyone needs a sloth on their bucket list and Panama is the perfect place to see them. π
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Reblogged this on A Woman of Enthusiasms and commented:
Big fan of sloths, two- and three-toed. Espcially the babies. World needs a species that can survive in the lowest gear.
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